WWD Oct 9, 2003
Layer It On

“Is that what you’re wearing?” inquires Billy Crystal of Meg Ryan in the romantic comedy When Harry Met Sally. Assessing her coordinated ensemble, which includes tweed pants, button down shirt, vest, blazer and bowler, Ryan’s Sally character shrugs and asks why she shouldn’t wear it for her expected date later in the evening.

Sally’s signature look, based on a layering of different but complimentary garments, is just as appropriate today as it was in 1989, the year of the film’s debut.

“Layering is an important trend in any season, but it’s particularly strong right now,” states Linda DeFranco, creative trend forecaster with Cotton Incorporated. “It affords great versatility in dressing, especially at a time when we’re just not ready to wear coats.”

Shares Sean Krebs, spokesperson for Gap, “Layering is something that consistently is reinvented season after season, especially for the fall and winter months when you need to layer for warmth. Gap’s take on layering for this season is vintage with a modern twist.”

And it looks as if retailers are giving the people what they want; namely, fully coordinated ensembles that take layering to the next level.

When asked by the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ about their impressions regarding how products were merchandised in stores, and if it was consequently difficult to coordinate a wardrobe, an overwhelming 77% disagreed, indicating that if it’s an ensemble they want, it’s an ensemble they’ll get.

Merchandise Too Spread Out In Stores, Difficult To Coordinate:

Agree
(2001) - 28%, (2002) - 22% -6pts.

Disagree
(2001) -71%, (2002) - 77% +6pts.

“I love buying different pieces and mixing and matching them,” shares Lily, a twenty-something retail executive. “It extends my wardrobe and allows me to put together a variety of looks. Layering also allows me to be creative, and really have some fun with my outfits.”

Lily seems to be in good company; only 26% of women told the Monitor that they enjoyed pushing fashion to the limit. And while women don’t necessarily want to take chances with their appearance, “They like dressing well and appearing coordinated,” relates DeFranco. She points to some other noteworthy updates that work with the layering effect that
are less matched, but just as stylish. “There’s a mix and match of fabrics, and colors and patterns. There’s also a mixing of coordinating scarves, hats and sweaters for a complete look that is 2003.”

Other popular interpretations of layering for the current season include a woven shirt peeking out from beneath a vest or sweater and topped with a blazer, legwarmers over tights or pants, or an asymmetrical sweater worn over a tank top or camisole. Many of these looks are topped off with long scarves, hats and fabric handbags.

“There are many great layering opportunities this season,” offers Nicki Gondell, principal of Trend House, Inc., a trend forecasting firm based in New York City. “We’ve seen the emergence of a very streamlined, mod-ish look for fall – form-fitting tops, short skirts, long colored legs and high boots. My favorite layered looks are Sixties-inspired pinafore dresses and jumpers worn over turtlenecks.”

“For fall, Gap is layering rich textures, colors and fabrics for an updated yet polished play on the classics. Gap suggests pairing cropped cords or slim-fit jeans with Fair Isle sweaters and velvet blazers.

Must-have accessories, like the skinny scarf or cord hobo bag, give this look the perfect finishing touch,” adds Krebs.

Trend House’s Gondell explains, “Also key are geometric – primarily circular – cut-outs, which allow little peeks of color to emerge from solid pieces. Because color blocking is so important this fall, there are many opportunities to make your own color mixes by playing with lengths.

Layer tees and tanks under new again wide-neck tops, or mix close-fitting knits of varying lengths for fun, high contrast appeal. I’ve also seen jackets with three-quarter length sleeves worn over pop art prints for a shot of color or pattern.”

“It’s far less ‘West Coast casual’ and far more a structured look this season,” declares Stacey Bendet Wiener, co-owner and designer of the up-and-coming brand alice+olivia, with regard to layering. “It’s girly and pretty, yet completely modern and polished. It also lends a fashion element to dressing.”

Within her collection, layering options include “waffle knits, long tees, sweaters with a woven underneath, layered cotton tees, legwarmers over jeans, tops that fall off the shoulder showing a tee or a tank underneath.” Wiener intends to carry the layered look and coordinating options forward for spring. “We’ll have some skirts that look like they have three layers,” she offers.

Cotton Incorporated’s DeFranco is a big fan of the layered look because it affords so many options for dressing up or down. “It’s a very professional look for work. You can mix and match cotton cashmere sweaters and other soft accessories. And for weekend, you can mix plaids and corduroys – it’s so easy.”

Adds Gap’s Krebs, “Women are embracing the layering trend for fall because it’s the perfect way to make your outfit unique. You can interpret the look of the season in your own way by adding or subtracting the elements that fit your lifestyle best.”