Detroit Free Press August 28, 2003
For school, teens look to the past and add their own twist

Everything old is new again, especially in style-conscious schools.

In a curious turn of events, many teens and tweens want to dress just like their parents -- or at least like their parents once did.

They've already adopted the low-rise jeans that sprang out of the 1970s, and now they're snapping up mod '60s miniskirts and off-the-shoulder tops straight out of 1983's "Flashdance."

Today's back-to-school clothing offers a buffet of cool looks, and the object is to put together your perfect plate. And you can come back the next day and serve up something completely different.

"I think the thing that's really happening is we're in a mode where it's truly about individualizing your look," says David Hacker, trend director for women's and girls' apparel at J.C. Penney. "It's really about changing up the trends to make them your own."

And teens have the money to do so. Teenage Research Unlimited, a market-research firm based in the Chicago area, forecasts that teens will spend $176 billion this year, about one-third of it on clothing.

Though the retro clothes look new to kids who hadn't been born when they were trendy the first time around, they're a safe choice for apparel manufacturers and retailers, who know that familiar looks are more likely to sell when times are tough.

"They take something that's familiar and twist it," says Nicki Gondell, who heads Trend House, a trend-forecasting service in New York. "It's tried and true and everybody understands it. But it's just new enough."

And it's a skillful way to market teen clothes, observers say.

"I'm ceaselessly amazed at retailers' cunning in releasing old things as new, thus kind of eliminating their research and development costs," says Rob Callender of Teenage Research Unlimited.

It may be old-school to adults, but to kids, it's the height of cool. Here's a look at the top trends as kids return to the classroom.

Comfort: It's the No. 1 requirement for many students, including Nicole Mandel, 17, a senior at Andover High School in Bloomfield Hills.

She's usually in Juicy Couture sweatpants or Hard Tail yoga pants with a roll-down waist. Stylish girls at Andover dress things up with Puma sneakers and Herve Chapelier nylon purses, while stylish guys like Diesel jeans and sweatshirts and Prada sneakers.

Though certain looks are key at Andover, Nicole says fashion isn't a top priority at the school.

"I don't think school is necessarily the place for fashion trends," she says. "It's kind of more for learning -- but everyone has their own style."

•Corduroy: This soft, comfy fabric was a winner last fall, and it's back even stronger, in jackets, pants and skirts of all lengths.

What's newest? Cargo skirts trimmed with lots of pockets and big buttons and jackets with military styling.

Corduroy is also getting the denim treatment, with washes and finishes to give it a lived-in look, says Laura McDowell, fashion spokesperson for T.J. Maxx.

•Miniskirts: Always the bane of school administrators, miniskirts are making a comeback, inspired by high-fashion '60s-mod trends and the punk-rock look favored by teens and tweens.

The mini kilt in a cheery plaid is the hands-down favorite for its versatility. Pair it with a corduroy blazer for a sweet schoolgirl look or an off-the-shoulder black top and chain jewelry for a walk on the punk side.

And there's good news for parents, principals and other monitors of public decency: "The fall skirts are pretty short, but they're not as mini as the summer ones were," says Michelle McCoul, manager of Frankie and Debbie's in Birmingham.

•Retro T-shirts: It's not enough that the T-shirt have an emblem or slogan that recalls a bygone era; the shirt must also look as if it had been worn way back then, too.

The fabric will likely be faded and the emblem a bit distressed, but you'll still be able to recognize Felix the Cat, Snoopy or the Pink Panther on the front.

•Track pants and jackets: Move the hoodie to the back of the closet and bring on the track jacket, which can be paired with anything from jeans and cords to a pleated miniskirt.

Key details? Racing stripes, zippers and racy fabrics such as nylon and mesh.

•The '80s: Only the most fashion-forward teens will jump full-blown into this look, which includes off-the-shoulder tops, leg warmers, shiny bomber jackets, chain jewelry and short skirts.

Depending on your mood, the look can take several directions, says Tyra Chappell, spokeswoman for Dots, a national chain with two dozen stores in metro Detroit. "It depends on how far you want to take it," she says. "It can be kind of punk, schoolgirl gone bad, with plaid miniskirts, grommet details and mesh tops. Or it can be Madonna in 'Like a Virgin,' with the neon colors and lace socks. It's a trend that's just going to get bigger."

•Surf and skate looks: This trend is big with tween boys, inspired by skateboard champion Tony Hawk and surf movies like "Blue Crush." It starts with baggy shorts; add a logo T-shirt for the appropriate sport and layer an untucked plaid shirt on top.

Comfort is key; so are brands like Hurley, Billabong, Oakley and Quiksilver, says Laura Schara, youth fashion specialist for Marshall Field's.

•Sports gear: Replica jerseys were the hottest urban trend for summer, and the look continues for fall with a seasonal adjustment, says Stacy Wilson, children's clothing buyer for Mr. Alan's, which has seven stores in metro Detroit.

Basketball jerseys were the big hit for summer, she says. Guys wore them with shorts and jeans, while girls were into fitted jersey dresses. For fall, Wilson expects football jerseys to come on strong. Mr. Alan's carries replica jerseys by Reebok.

•Jeans: Parents and school administrators will be glad to know that low-rise jeans have gone about as low as they can go. In fact, waistlines are beginning to inch up. Guys still like their jeans baggy, though not quite as saggy as before. And girls like their jeans decorated, with big buttons (a trend sparked by designer Marc Jacobs) and embroidery, as seen in the Gap corduroy ads starring Madonna and Missy Elliott.

•Cargo pants: Yep, still around, but displaying a split personality. There's the tough, hardware-laden version that you might find at the Army-Navy store. and there's the sweet, feminine type in satin, with little drawstrings to cinch in the ankles. Either way, wear with boots and a fitted top.

Even in a time where individuality reigns, some styles just won't cut it right now.

What's out -- or waning, at least? Acid-washed jeans, duster coats, peasant blouses and huge bulky sweaters.The jury's still out on trucker hats, which are just getting cool in some circles and already passe in others. Same thing with chunky platform shoes, which appear to be losing ground to pointy-toed boots.

But don't throw the old things away. At some point, they'll be back.